2009年3月1日 星期日

The little King - Jean Paul


The day that Jean Pual first saw th Folies-Bergere on television changed his life. Fascinated by the beauty and colour of the costumes- not to mention their sexuality- he couldn't stop drawing them, even though it got him into serious troublee at school. The elements of fantasy- feathers, cockades and exotic head-dreses- have been used so frequently by the couturier that thy are now recognized almost as staples of his collections.

Also , Folies-Bergere was the beginning of what he now sees as his sexual education, linked with 'gay fantasies of men who show a certain femininity in their clothes, although i always wanted to balance it with a string masculinity.

Apart from tlevision, his grandmother was his link to the popular entertainment of the past.




Often criticized for making fun of sexuality , of confusing gender definitions and making men and women- but most often men- look ridiculous, Gautier is happy to give himself the same treatment. He loves dressing up, whether as the Princess of Wales or as a cleaning woman. For the MTV fashion and music awards in 1995, he wore a variety of costumes to show that dressing up or stripping down can be fun.








All of the above are from Gaultier's menswear collection Spring-Summer 1989, called ' Baroque western', which looked at ' the mysteries of the West... and the urban cowboy'.

Gaultier has always decried the simplistic approach o the sexes which dresses women as sex objects but doesn't bring the same attitue to male dress. He highlights the male bulge as an erotic zone in exactly the same way in which other designers pinpoint ares of the female antomy. These looks add long slinky gloves for elegance,half hide the face for allure, use fringing for titilation and add gold for glamour.










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